Drag Race Cars

5 responses so far ↓

• Patrick McLoad

  Sep 10, 2010 at 8:09 am

  

  Eric:
  Interesting pics; I feel your pain! I thought I’d make a few comments, as usual. No doubt you’ll be doing so cad or zinc plating, so make sure to throw in the Cheney clamps too. Also be advised that the seemingly insignificant “other-style” clamps are no longer available either, though close versions are obtainable. Save those as well! You would be surprised how difficult it is to find those exact screws and square nuts!

  Something doesn’t look right with that header tank and how it is held to the bracket, but I don’t know enough about the early E-Types to say for sure. But you would think the header tank would utilize both front and rear mounting holes instead of just one or the other. I’m not sure about the arm that connects to the fan shroud and radiator; however that thick spacer IS correct and serves as a “distance piece” between the bracket and the shroud!

  As much they are about as reliable as any Lucas part, the “Otter” temp. switch was not made by Lucas. I’ve probably gone through a half-dozen just trying to find one that works consistently. Actually, my fan is now hard wired to where it comes on when I turn the ignition…this way, I know it is working.

  Yep, radiator is toast; you’d spend more trying to fix this one than just buying new. I don’t ever recall a lower radiator hose going over the picture frame as the inlet to the water pump is below the picture frame. There is a short steel pipe section (on the 4.2 L) between the pump and radiator. This probably was a safety measure due to the proximity to the fan belt; could also provide rigidity. I’d probably go back with the 4.2 version as that ell in your diagram looks like a perfect place for an air bubble to reside!

  It’s not uncommon to find a stack of washers like that. The workers putting these cars together did whatever they had to do to keep the line rolling. If that meant grabbing a few more washers for a too long bolt, that’s what they did. (They had bad days too!)

  Yes, that fan blade is pathetic, but many in the Jaguar community will swear that if your car is timed properly and everything is correct, that the fan should pull enough air to keep it cool. But many others like me are not willing to take a chance, and have found much better results with a Cool Cat fan in its place (I think I wrote you on this before). I’d swap it myself.

  Even though the radiator mounting bracket is bent up, at least the bonnet hinge tube looks straight, which if it wasn’t, would provide a world of hurt in regards to bonnet alignment. It’s not uncommon to see either of these bent by some screwball who thought they were jacking points. The little tab on the bonnet tube is for a license plate actuator that folds the plate downward when the bonnet is opened. Personally, I’d leave the front plate off as it blocks air flow into the radiator. Just carry the plate with you, and if pulled over, just explain that E’s didn’t have a provision for front plates….and you’ll be damned if you’re going to drill holes in your bonnet for them! (You can give the cop my name and number; I’ll take care of it for you!)

  Looking at one of your heater box pics, there is an upper water hose and a lower. Each of these SHOULD go to an internal transfer tube that is pop-riveted to the firewall. It looks like your lower hose is going somewhere else. In between these two hoses should be a small hole to operate the vent flap…it should NOT come out of the hole next to the linkage. (The speedo cable appears to be coming out of the correct hole). This gets a bit confusing for me as mine is a right-hand drive car and almost everything is reversed…plus, my hyd. reservoir bottles mount against the firewall, not next to the friggin’ exhaust manifold (what a bad design THAT is!). The hole next to your linkage should not be used for anything, and rubber chassis plug should be inserted there.

  In regards to the transfer tubes, they are a bitch to replace, but replace you must! I think there are 2 larger tubes for water (in and out), and one smaller vacuum tube for brake assist. I’m not sure, but on some earlier models, the vacuum tube ran across the outside of the firewall (in the fold) as opposed to inside. Be sure to replace these tubes with either copper or stainless, the latter is what I used. When you buy a set, the D-washers for pop-riveting are usually included (same are already welded to the tubes). I made sure to strip the Krylon paint on these and shot 2-part black automotive so it would last.

  Yep, replace the senders and bottles with new. The old baked plastic becomes brittle and will shatter, spilling very nasty hydraulic fluid all over your newly painted frame rails. I don’t think they supply the screen mesh in the reproductions any more.

  Be sure to mark and save every one of those small hydraulic pipes. You’ll either need to make new or buy a set. I bought stainless steel, but quickly learned that you cannot flare SS at home…it takes a hydraulic machine as SS is so hard.

  Looks like the bellows-shaped rubber grommet is missing on your steering shaft. The small circular sheet metal ring with three screws is what holds it into place. Don’t forget this when reassembling the shaft (you should consider replacing the small u-joint between shaft and rack/pinion assembly).

  Until next time, your Jag-Nut friend,

  Patrick McLoad
• Docstoc feed for: Legal

  May 1, 2011 at 6:26 pm

  

  GM PONTIAC RACK AND PINION ASSEMBLY
• Patrick McLoad

  May 4, 2011 at 7:05 am

  

  Eric:
  Interesting pics; I feel your pain! I thought I’d make a few comments, as usual. No doubt you’ll be doing so cad or zinc plating, so make sure to throw in the Cheney clamps too. Also be advised that the seemingly insignificant “other-style” clamps are no longer available either, though close versions are obtainable. Save those as well! You would be surprised how difficult it is to find those exact screws and square nuts!

  Something doesn’t look right with that header tank and how it is held to the bracket, but I don’t know enough about the early E-Types to say for sure. But you would think the header tank would utilize both front and rear mounting holes instead of just one or the other. I’m not sure about the arm that connects to the fan shroud and radiator; however that thick spacer IS correct and serves as a “distance piece” between the bracket and the shroud!

  As much they are about as reliable as any Lucas part, the “Otter” temp. switch was not made by Lucas. I’ve probably gone through a half-dozen just trying to find one that works consistently. Actually, my fan is now hard wired to where it comes on when I turn the ignition…this way, I know it is working.

  Yep, radiator is toast; you’d spend more trying to fix this one than just buying new. I don’t ever recall a lower radiator hose going over the picture frame as the inlet to the water pump is below the picture frame. There is a short steel pipe section (on the 4.2 L) between the pump and radiator. This probably was a safety measure due to the proximity to the fan belt; could also provide rigidity. I’d probably go back with the 4.2 version as that ell in your diagram looks like a perfect place for an air bubble to reside!

  It’s not uncommon to find a stack of washers like that. The workers putting these cars together did whatever they had to do to keep the line rolling. If that meant grabbing a few more washers for a too long bolt, that’s what they did. (They had bad days too!)

  Yes, that fan blade is pathetic, but many in the Jaguar community will swear that if your car is timed properly and everything is correct, that the fan should pull enough air to keep it cool. But many others like me are not willing to take a chance, and have found much better results with a Cool Cat fan in its place (I think I wrote you on this before). I’d swap it myself.

  Even though the radiator mounting bracket is bent up, at least the bonnet hinge tube looks straight, which if it wasn’t, would provide a world of hurt in regards to bonnet alignment. It’s not uncommon to see either of these bent by some screwball who thought they were jacking points. The little tab on the bonnet tube is for a license plate actuator that folds the plate downward when the bonnet is opened. Personally, I’d leave the front plate off as it blocks air flow into the radiator. Just carry the plate with you, and if pulled over, just explain that E’s didn’t have a provision for front plates….and you’ll be damned if you’re going to drill holes in your bonnet for them! (You can give the cop my name and number; I’ll take care of it for you!)

  Looking at one of your heater box pics, there is an upper water hose and a lower. Each of these SHOULD go to an internal transfer tube that is pop-riveted to the firewall. It looks like your lower hose is going somewhere else. In between these two hoses should be a small hole to operate the vent flap…it should NOT come out of the hole next to the linkage. (The speedo cable appears to be coming out of the correct hole). This gets a bit confusing for me as mine is a right-hand drive car and almost everything is reversed…plus, my hyd. reservoir bottles mount against the firewall, not next to the friggin’ exhaust manifold (what a bad design THAT is!). The hole next to your linkage should not be used for anything, and rubber chassis plug should be inserted there.

  In regards to the transfer tubes, they are a bitch to replace, but replace you must! I think there are 2 larger tubes for water (in and out), and one smaller vacuum tube for brake assist. I’m not sure, but on some earlier models, the vacuum tube ran across the outside of the firewall (in the fold) as opposed to inside. Be sure to replace these tubes with either copper or stainless, the latter is what I used. When you buy a set, the D-washers for pop-riveting are usually included (same are already welded to the tubes). I made sure to strip the Krylon paint on these and shot 2-part black automotive so it would last.

  Yep, replace the senders and bottles with new. The old baked plastic becomes brittle and will shatter, spilling very nasty hydraulic fluid all over your newly painted frame rails. I don’t think they supply the screen mesh in the reproductions any more.

  Be sure to mark and save every one of those small hydraulic pipes. You’ll either need to make new or buy a set. I bought stainless steel, but quickly learned that you cannot flare SS at home…it takes a hydraulic machine as SS is so hard.

  Looks like the bellows-shaped rubber grommet is missing on your steering shaft. The small circular sheet metal ring with three screws is what holds it into place. Don’t forget this when reassembling the shaft (you should consider replacing the small u-joint between shaft and rack/pinion assembly).

  Until next time, your Jag-Nut friend,

  Patrick McLoad
• busyman1985

  Nov 30, 2011 at 5:52 am

  

  It could be a wheel bearing. Can't tell you for sure, because on the internet I can't hear it of feel it!
• busyman1985

  Jan 8, 2012 at 2:32 pm

  

  most of the time you can check which hub assy. its by driving and swaying to one side or the other. the noise will change one way or the other. it will go away some or get worse.
  if you sway to the left and it changes. more than likely its the right and vice vers. But you could also check to make sure theres no rocks or dibree in between the backing plate and rotor if there is one.